Sea-Gull

Founded 1955 · Tianjin, China · Founded by order of the government of the People's Republic of China (the Tianjin Watch Factory); there is no individual founder — it started with four craftsmen

Sea-Gull was founded in January 1955 as the Tianjin Watch Factory, the company that produced the first mechanical watch made in China and closed the era in which the country could only repair watches, not build them. Today it is one of the largest mechanical movement manufactures in the world, state-owned, known for making its own calibres end to end and for putting complications such as the column-wheel chronograph and the tourbillon within reach.

History

The Tianjin Watch Factory was founded in January 1955, and that same year the first Chinese wristwatch was completed: the "Wuxing" (Five Stars). In 1961 the government commissioned Project 304 to equip air force pilots with a precision chronograph, which took shape in 1963 as the D304 aviation chronograph, held to be the first aeronautical chronograph of Chinese manufacture. The brand went through several names — Wuxing, Wuyi, Dongfeng (East Wind) — before settling on "Sea-Gull" around 1973-1974. The Tianjin Seagull corporation was formed in 1992 and, after a brief detour, refocused on mechanical watchmaking in 1997; it listed on the stock market in 2000. Through the 2000s it developed high complication of its own: its first tourbillon in 2005 and, in 2009, the ST9250 calibre, which brings tourbillon, minute repeater and perpetual calendar together in a single piece. In 2010 it moved production to new premises near Tianjin airport, and in recent years it has launched anniversary editions and its first official global direct-sale store.

Iconic models

  • Sea-Gull 1963 (Aviation Chronograph)

    A reissue of the 1963 military chronograph; its affordable hand-wound column-wheel chronograph made it the house flagship

  • Wuxing / Five Stars (1955)

    The first wristwatch made in China; the founding piece of the country's watchmaking

  • D304 (military chronograph, 1963)

    China's first aviation chronograph and the direct ancestor of the ST19 movement that still drives the 1963

  • ST19 movement

    A hand-wound column-wheel chronograph derived and refined from the Swiss Venus 175 calibre; the heart of the 1963 line

  • ST9250 (triple complication, 2009)

    Combines tourbillon, minute repeater and perpetual calendar, proving Sea-Gull's own high-watchmaking capability

Worth knowing

The Sea-Gull 1963 chronograph still runs a movement (the ST19) descended directly from the Swiss Venus 175 calibre, whose production machinery China bought in the sixties. That is why a Chinese column-wheel chronograph beats with mid-century Swiss DNA.

Sea-Gull at Reserva de Marcha

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